Final Makeup Designs

Final Makeup Designs

 

These are my final makeup designs that I have created for my new Elizabethan.
Out of all these designs my favourite is design 2, this is the one that I am most likely wanting to choose as my final design to give to my partner. I wanted to keep all of my designs very editorial, with a colour palette of darks e.g black, red, purple, metallics and also white. This is because I want to symbolise greif of all of Elizabeths lost loves, and the metallic represent money, which she would have been out of as she died poor. I want all the skin to be glossy and to also try and create the effect of tears or sweat, without smuding the base of the makeup. I need to experiment with creating bases to get the glossy sheen that I am after but to do this without ruining the base underneath.

 

Design 1

For this design I have gone for a more simplistic approach to makeup. The base will be again white, but naturally white, I want to keep the skin for this design quite natural but will highlight the face with the Illamasqua pigment, this is another way that I will be symbolising tears. For this design I will mix lipgloss with the Illamasqua pigment and create tears with this.
The red under the eyes symbolises anger and also how tired she is, because she is angry about how her life has turned out.
There will be adornments around the eyes, this is to symbolise her fading wealth.

• Moisturiser/ Primer - MAC Strobe Cream
• Foundation - Kryolan & White Skin Base
• Concealer - Dermacolour
• Powder - Illamasqua Loose Set
• Blush/ Bronzer - None
• Contour/ Highlighter - Illamasqua Sculpting Duo & Illamasqua Pigment in
• Eyeshadow - MAC Brun, Illamasqua Red
• Pencil Liner - Black
• Mascara - Black/ Gold
• Lip Liner - Black
• Lip Colour - Black
• Lipgloss - Clear

Instructions

1. Cleanse, Tone and Moisturise the face and then apply MAC strobe cream all over the face and wait for it to sink in.
2. Mix the lightest Kryolan foundation with Illamasqua skin base and apply this from the centre of the face outwards buffing it in.
3. Highlight with white skin base.
4. Powder the face with Illamasqua loose set powder, then set the highlight points with Illamasqua eyeshadow in 'sex'.
5. Contour the face under the cheekbones and on the temples with Illamasqua and then highlight on top of the cheekbones with Illamasqua loose pigment.
6. For the eyes use the red from the Kyrolan brights palette and apply this under the eyes blending it out, and apply MAC Brun to the crease.
7. Apply mascara liberally for the clogged effect.
8. Apply MAC Brun to the eyebrows, using brush strokes to make them look messy, then use clear mascara to set them into place.
9. Use black eyeliner to line the lips then fill in with black Supracolour.
10. Spray face with fix plus before pictures to achieve the dewy look.

Design 2

This design has been heavily inspired by Pat McGrath's work with John Galliano, but I have made it a lot darker. The base will be pale, I want it to be pale not white because I want the skin to look slightly off, so a really pale complexion will make the skin look like it is ill, I want the skin to look like it is wet to represent tears from her grief. The black around the eyes will be very round, and will go right up and cover the eyebrows, this is symbolic of how Elizabethans heavily plucked their eyebrows, but is also in the same place as the eye sockets on a skull, so this will mimic this. The dark colours are symbolic of her grief, with the hints of silver and bronze to show decay. Although I have drawn my face chart with a full lip, I have decided to white out the lip and dab the colour onto the centre of the lip, this is to symbolise her trying to keep up appearances, and to show her emotional instability, so it will be messy.

• Moisturisers/ Primer - Loreal Lumi Magique / Satin Primer
• Foundation - Kryolan & White Skin Base
• Concealer - Dermacolour
• Powder - Illamasqua Loose Set
• Blush/ Bronzer - None
• Contour/ Highlight - Illamasqua highlighting duo
• Eyeshadow - Illamasqua eye shadow in black. Illamasqua liquid metals in bronze, silver and gold.
• Pencil Liner - Black
• Mascara - Black
• Lip Liner - Cyber
• Lipgloss - Clear

Instructions

1. Cleanse, Tone and Moisturise the skin, and then apply L'Oreal lumi magique liberally to the face as a base.
2. Use the lightest colour in the Kryolan foundation palette, and mix this with equal parts of Illamasqua's Skin base and some more L'Oreal lumi magique primer, and apply to the face buffing it in from the centre.
3. Highlight and conceal the face with white Supracolour, apply this down the cheekbones, on the jawbone, down the nose and on top of the eyebrows and forehead at the top.
4. Set the face with Illamasqua loose set powder to keep the base, and set the highlight with Illamasqua pressed eyeshadow in 'sex'
5. Lightly with MAC 'cozy grey' blend this colour around the eye socket, this should be just above the eyebrow and coming round the cheekbone at the bottom In a circle, this should look like the eye socket of a skull.
6. Then go in with Illamasqua's eyeshadow in 'oblivion' and completely cover the browbone area including the eyebrow, and only leave the mobile eyelid clear, take this below the eye and blend down so it blends out to pretty much nothing.
7. Take the Illamasqua liquid metals palette and take the dark silver colour, apply this all over the mobile eyelid, on the top of the black near the inner part of the eyebrows, and then diagonally at the bottom of the black near the cheekbones. Use the bronze colour in the inner corner.
8. Line the lower lash line with black and blend this out.
9. Curl lashes, apply mascara and false eye lashes.
10. Use the Illamasqua sculpt kit to carve out the cheekbones and contour the nose, and use the highlighter on the top of the cheekbones and on the tip of the nose.
11. Use the foundation brush to wipe the white colour all over the lips to white them out, then use the Purple and black Supracolour mixed and dab this in small amounts onto the lip, going over the lipline. Then with the copper liquid metals palette apply this to where the natural cupids bow is.
12. To finish, spray over fix plus or glycerine and water and photograph whilst it is still wet.

 Design 3

This makeup design was heavily inspired by rust and decay, the base will be extremely pale so I am thinking of using a true white for this look but applying it sheer so you can see the skin underneath, I think this is the best way to show illness or death, there will be rogue on the cheeks, nose and chin this will be symbolic of her trying to make herself look healthy in an attempt to save face. The eyes are meant to symbolise her wealth fading away, so I have stuck to a metallic colour scheme, the tears will be a visual representation of the loss in her life. When I tired this design I have chosen to take out the graphic liner, I feel with this you loose the period reference within the makeup and it becomes more Egyptian rather than Elizabethan, I found that messy blended kohl eyeliner worked better and showed my theme of grief better.

• Moisturiser/ Primer - Satin Primer
• Foundation - Illamasqua skin base white 
• Concealer - White supracolour
• Powder - Illamasqua Loose Set
• Blush/ Bronzer - Essence Palette
• Contour/ Highlight - Essence Palette
• Eyeshadow - Liquid Metals gold, silver and bronze.
• Pencil Liner - Black
• Mascara - Black
• Lip Liner - Black
• Lipstick - Red
• Lipgloss - Clear 

Instructions

1. Prime the face with satin primer and make sure the skin is well moisturised
2. Mix L'Oreal Lumi Magique primer with the white skin base and buff into the skin, this needs to be a sheer to medium coverage so the skin can still be seen underneath.
3. Conceal any blemishes with white Supracolour.
4. Apply the 081 Supracolour (Maroon red) to the apples of the cheeks, end of nose and also the chin and buff it out to a really sheer coverage.
5. Contour under the cheekbones and temples with a dark shade of the foundation palette, make sure this is very subtle.
6. For the eyes use the liquid metals palette, use your fingers to apply the product and push and blend it onto the lid. The gold colour should go underneath the eyes, along the brow bone/ eyebrows, and then should come down as tears. The bronze should be dabbed onto the mobile eyelid and the silver needs to be used as a transition shade so dab this round the outside to blend these colours.
7. Apply black pencil to the waterline and blend, and pull this down onto the gold tears to give them more definition.
8. Apply a liberal coat of black mascara.
9. for the lips outline with a black pencil and smudge, then mix clear lipgloss with a small amount of 079 in the Supracolour palette and wipe over lips blending the black further.
10. Spray the face with fix plus before you shoot, do not set any of the makeup with powder.